I can't believe that this time last year I was preparing for my great European adventure. Some sad things happened while I was gone that I wish hadn't. And I missed Eric and my family and friends. But it really was an adventure. Even going to the grocery store was thrilling, or walking to class in the morning. Did I mention there was a sketch by Michangelo on the wall in the classroom next to ours? They'd just found it under layers of paint. My apartment was across the plaza from Santa Croche church. There were twelve flights of stone stairs to our rooms. In Paris, we stayed two metro stops away from the catacombs entrance. It was all so amazing and unreal I can hardly believe I was there. If Libby hadn't of come I would have thought it a dream.
Day to day life in Lawrence is more fascinating to me because of my trip. I thought I wouldn't be able to bear it, but instead I am more in awe of everything.
In Europe, there were place I simply shuddered to think of who else had seen what I saw--Galileo's instruments, St. Peter's, the palaces of Vienna, the plaza where Hitler held his first rally, the cell of Marie Antoinette, Ann Frank's house, the relic of the Holy Blood. So much history. Things I've been learning about my whole life.
Many of my friends from the trip are bored back at KU; can't wait to got out and travel again. I'm going to China for three weeks this summer and couldn't be more excited. But I'm not going because I have a sense of adventure, or I can't bear the US. I don't know why I'm going. I guess I've been a traveler my whole life, and I don't think I can stop now.
well silly computer. I will expand more on the Libby-and-Madeleine-died-and-are-existing-in-some-other-state-of-consciousness theory later. Mom wants me to go to bed. Twenty years old--why do I feel like I'm twelve?
Right, back to nat'l protest day in Paris. We loaded up all of our luggage (I mean, I didn't bring that much, really) and walked all the way back to line 4. My hand fell asleep several times from the weight. Coming from the other direction were gobs of people with different signs, stickers, buttons, t-shirts. Some were singing; some were chanting. And the traffic was horrible! We walked faster than all of the cars the whole way, to the dorm and back. It was crazy--six weeks and I hadn't seen anything like it. At least the rain cleared up for a bit. . .
So we FINALLY make it down to the metro stop, and we got on right away. And then we sat there. And sat there. I think everyone had a seat; no one had to stand. After maybe 15 mintues, we got rolling. Stop after stop, the car filled. We sat at the first stop, and the car filled with people--protesters. And we sat there. It got stuffy. And then the second stop--more protesters. And by the third stop, I think we were as full as we could get. Everyone was squished together. But at the fourth stop, even more people decided to get in. Every stop after that, we'd stop, and four or five people would get out, and at least TEN more would try to get in. I had a lady leaning right up against me and two others sitting on my luggage. One man simply couldn't fit in, and he slammed himself in. The doors kept closing on him and jumping back open. Usually, when you feel like one more person can't fit on the metro, you just squeeze a little and then doors close and it's fine. This time, it was physically impossible. He just could not fit. Poor Libby had her upright suitcase and the guy yelled at everyone to move, and an elderly lady explained that no one could move. This jerk yelled to move the suitcase. It couldn't move because it was surrounded by people. So in the end the poor lady had her ribcage jammed into the suitcase by the man. Big city people. Drr. Luckily we had the sweetest men help us off. Two guys carried our suitcases and yelled at everyone to move out of our way. I was in the far back and had almost no hope of getting off. People always surprise me I guess.
We sat at the Gare du Nord for a while. First we thought we'd put our luggage in storage and wander around, get something to eat. We put most of our stuff in a big locker, and closed it. We didn't have the correct change, but the locker was dysfunctional. If you don't put money in the locker after 30 seconds or so, it pops open. This one didn't. So we got one of the men working there to come look at it, and he said it would have to wait until tomorrow. I said, oh no it can't, we have a flight tonight! We didn't have a flight that night, but it was at 7 AM which meant we needed to be there to check in at 5, and the locker room didn't open until 6. I didn't want to come back at 11 PM and have the locker not open! So poor Libby endured my paranoia and we took a taxi to Charles DeGaulle. A 60 Euro taxi ride. I think I still owe her for that, now that I think of it. . .
So on our last night in Paris, instead of getting to do all the things we'd planned, like our favorite restaurants and some last minute gift shopping, we sat up all night in DeGaulle Airport. I read Kundera's "The Unbearable Lightness of Being," which I rather enjoyed. It had interesting ideas, especially since Libby and I had concluded that we had died at some point during this trip. Perhaps I should expand on this.
So I have neglected concluding this blog for quite some time. Wow I've almost been home for a month! More on that in a sec. I'll finish up my adventure first.
What can I remember. . .
Sunday we went to Leuren in Belgium and took a self-directed walking tour. In the warm sun, we saw all the old university buildings, churches and parks. The neatest part was the UNESCO World Heritage site--a whole little walled in village. No cars were allowed; the whole village was made of brick. Very cool.
Monday we went to Brugges and met with Nicole, wife of my mom's cousin Anton, who has since passed on. As I remembered from years ago, she's a sweet, friendly lady who goes out of her way to make people feel welcome. Her english was amazing after having so few opportunities to practice it. She was darling and helpful. Bought us waffles too. For dinner we went to Maud's, my mom's cousin on the other side. My greatuncle Georges was there, along with Guido (another cousin) and his wife Marlene. They are such interesting, intelligent people, and it was good to see them again. Poor Libby endured my family all week!
Tuesday we had to leave Antwerp for Paris. Poor Gijs was sick with an infection, and Ann had to take off work to stay home with him. They drove us to the train station and waved goodbye. We were so lucky to have been able to stay at their house.
When we got into Paris, it was raining. Libby and I both slipped and fell on the train platform. To make matters worse, when we finally made it down to the metro with all of our luggage, they weren't running. We couldn't figure out why. When we FINALLY were able to get on line 4, it stoped for long periods of time at every stop. We then walked 500 meters to the Cite from the last metro stop. We were lucky to find one that close. We got our luggage out of storage from the basement of our dorm. Then we had to repack everything! We did it in the lobby! Everyone gave us stange looks, especially the people who had moved in after us.
Alright, well Mom needs my help. Moving and all. More later.
I've been waiting weeks to say that. I am half Flemish you know. . .
So we're staying with my family on the Keldermans side. Rombout and his wife Ann and their three beautiful children, Gijs, Wout and Korneel. Such a great young family. I last saw Ann and Rombout in Texas in 1997, and before that I think I was 11 and Rombout was like 23? Anyways it's been a while but I recognized him at the train station right away. Ann and Rombout are remodelling their house so it's in turmoil. But of course they didn't tell us until Rombout picked us up from the train station. They keep telling us to come back in a month.
So yesterday we went into Antwerp for the day and say the major sites--the Cathedral, the river Scheldt (sp?), the Steen (9th century fortess, oldest building left; used as a prison for years), Peter-Paul Ruben house, that building with all the flags of the EU all over it next to the huge fountain (okay so I'm not the greatest tour giude), and the big shopping street, the Mier. I managed to find Libby some REAL, flaky Belgian waffles (oh so tasty) and we also had some asparagus soup and croquettes. Good Belgian fare. Ann promised to take us for frites (fries) sometime before we leave. There is no such thing as 'french' fries; who ever started that rumour need to take some European geography. Hopefully I can convert Libby. So much better in Belgium.
Today we're in Brussles. We first went to see the Church of St. Madeleine, and then wandered the market nearby and say the Cathedral and the beautiful old buildings. So dirty and still so appealing. And we'll do some more sightseeing after this and then head back to Antwerp. Ann or Rombout (or perhaps both if they can find a babysitter) offered to show us the nightlife. They told us stories about when they went out in college--often until past 5 AM!! We had to explain that you can't go out until the age of 21 (unliek 16 in Belgium) and that bars close at 2. . . such a different world. But we'll give it a whirl.
So Leuven (Ann's hometown and the university town) on Sunday. The beach (coast, but what's a little optimism going to harm?) perhaps and Bruges on Monday. Back to Paris to pick up our stuff on Tuesday, and then at the airport at 5 AM for our 7 AM flight home on Wednesday.
Four days and my European odessey is finished. I'm not really sure that the United States exists anymore except for in my imagination. It will be good to come home.
Oh and everyone wish your mom a HAPPY MOTHERS DAY.
So it shut me down. . . but Libby wanted more time! Lucky me.
Neil Young. Amazing. We almost didn't make it. . . somewhere between entering the concert hall, going to the bathroom, buying t-shirts and getting up to the door, the tickets disappeared from Libby's purse. So close to not getting in. . . luckily I remembered our seat numbers, and I had to sign a form saying we'd lost the tickets. No one came in with our tickets, so I don't think they were stolen or scalped.
It was an excellent show. I almost can't really believe that I saw him. . . I guess because so many other people I'd like to see are dead. Right.
The first set was new stuff he's recorded but hasn't released yet. All the songs had overlapping characters and a good message. The rhyming was often painful (ex. disbelief and grief) but his voice was perfect. And I don't know, something about protecting Alaska because it's the last great wilderness on the American continent. . .
The second set was better but too short! He played "Expecting to Fly," "Don't Let it Bring You Down," "Old Man," and other favorites. His only encore was "Heart of Gold." We hung around after and saw him get into a Mercedes. So darling. He's all wrinkly and wearing a cap backwards with a Canadian flag on it :-) It was a great time--even though we were surrounded by middle ages couples and balding men wearing faded black t-shirts. Not the most enthusatic crowds. . . but the concert hall was amazing!! Philharmonic Munchen. So nice. Even Neil commented on how good the sound was.
When we got to Amsterdam, we first went to Ann Frank's house. Another downer. I can't take all this emotional turmoil--from Dachau to Neil Young to Ann Frank. When we first got in, I was surprise at how big the rooms seemed. Then I realized they had hardly any furniture in them. It was a well put-together place--lots of video boards with interviews of Miep the helped and Anne's father. It was another site that was unreal and depressing all at the same time. I'm glad we went.
What else have we done in Amsterdam? . . .
Musuem of Modern Art-- Stedelijk Museum. We walked past the massive Rijksmuseum (State Museum) and the Van Gogh musuem on the way. The Van Gogh musuem had crazy long lines! It was also fairly expensive--like 8 or 9 Euro. And no museums in the Netherlands have student discounts! I'm so spoled by the $1 fee in Budapest. . . even Vienna had cheap student fairs. Oh well, it was worth the money. They brought out the best of their collection, and a random exhibit on Pop Art. There was a lot of really intriguing Dutch painting from the 80s.
Since we were south of town, we headed into Vondelpark. Also beautiful, full of cyclists and children and shouting homeless men. We had one come up and ask us where we were from, and I said the US. He snapped at me: "I know HEARD you are from the US! I didn't ask WHAT COUNTRY you're from, I asked WHERE are you from? I couldn't place your accent." I left rather than explaining my life story. . . I've just been telling people I'm from Kansas, for lack of a better explaination. It was a nice park anyways. We enjoyed the sunshine.
It seems like we've also seen a lot of churchs in Amsterdam. . .English Church, West Church, New Church. . . so many! We've also been around Dam square a lot, and wandering the canals.
Today we're off to Belgium! To stay with my mom's cousin? I think that's the relation. Not important. I get to show Libby some of Belgium--waffles, fries, and chocolate! Maybe we'll squeeze in some sites or something :-)
Hello from Amsterdam! I know my intros all sound the same. . . what can you do?
Munich was a very nice, very friendly city. So much more friendly than Prague.
Dachau was sincerely moving. Like the flyer promised, it is meant to be a memorial for the prisoners, not a horror show. The scene is so painfully familiar, rows of barracks lined by trees. We saw the iron gate with the inscription "Work Brings Freedom." And we saw the crematorium. They had two at Dachau, and a gas chamber that was never reported as being used. The barracks were so simple and quiet, and then you could see pictures of them crammed full of people. I also got to see the figure of the Madonna used by all the resistant priests who were sent to Dachau. There's a Carmelite convent, Holy Blood, right on the edge. I guess only the German priests were allowed to say mass or pray; all the Polish (and Czech, Slovak, Belgian, French) priests were punished if caught praying. Also, Dachau was where they performed experiments in the infirmary, under the direction of Himmler. Tests on healthy people for hypothermia, so the army would know after what time they should give up looking for German parachuters in the English Channel. How cruel is that?
I'm sure you've heard some of it before, but it was strange to be there. Much like it was strange to be on the beachs of Normandy, or at St. Peter's, or Wencelas Square, or the square where the Bastille stood. But at least those weren't places of unimaginable suffering.
Little shout out to my European Studies teacher, Matt-- we went to see the sight of Hitler's failed 'beer hall putsch.' Not what I expected. It was an open loggia with sculptures on it of lions and dead men, right by an open square, next to a bright yellow church. Maybe location was a factor in the failure? I guess Nazis had to salute the place when Hitler was in power.
What else did we do in Munich? Saw a good number of churches, but mostly from the outside. Marianplatz, the square of our lady, is the center of activity. The old town hall and the new town hall are right there. A statue of Mary tops the new town hall. I guess Germany isn't a secular as I thought. . . Karlsplatz, St. Charles square, is active and near by, with pretty fountains. The open market was nice, but more permenant than others we've been to, in Italy and Hungary. The English Garden north of town was beautiful--grassy open places, cool shady spots. There are biketrails, wading ponds, a rushing stream with surfers. Something for everyone! Playgrounds, beer garden, and a nudist area. I think in Munich we ate Indian and pretzels. And beer. Libby really liked the Hofbrau (which tastes more like lemonade than beer)--you could only get them in huge liter mugs in the English Garden. Intense.
